Jura is the eighth biggest island in Scotland, but 31st in terms of population. At one time over 1,000 people lived here and now just a couple of hundred. It’s name is derived from the norse, but there are two possibilities. Is it from Dyrøy, meaning ‘deer island’ or is it Jurøy, meaning ‘udder island’ – a reference to the uniquely shaped Paps (mountains) of Jura.
Most of the island is covered in blanket bog and is infertile, and it is home to almost 3,000 red deer. It’s beautiful and unspoiled and, being a short ferry ride from Port Askaig, Islay it is a place not to be missed for anyone visiting its bigger cousin.
Whilst there is plenty to do for several days here, and a hotel (with camping area in front), and cottages and cabins for those wanting to stay over in Bnb or guesthouses or self-catering if you only have a day you can still see lots of the island and pack in plenty of activities. Here we’ve picked five things that you can do absolutely free on the island .
It takes around 10 minutes to get across the Sound of Jura on the ferry from Port Askaig – cars, cyclists and foot passengers all welcome – and the ferry runs several times a day.
You’ll find views of the paps as you cross the sound and from different angles around the island – sometimes you’ll see all three, and at other times it looks like there’s only two.
The sound runs for 20 miles between the two islands and has some strong currents, but here you’re crossing it at its narrowest point – the same place where thousands and thousands of cattle have crossed in times past – there have even been some folk who have swum across these waters, but we don’t advise it!
Once you get to the other side you turn right and head for Craighouse (about eight miles away) along a narrow road which hugs the coastline (don’t be in too much of a hurry though, watch out for otters along the shoreline here and take time to take in the view and try to spot some deer).
- Explore Craighouse
The road starts to go down hill as you enter Craighouse, the main village on Jura, and you’ll see Jura Distillery on your left and the Jura Hotel on your right. (our photo was taken looking back towards the buildings with the road you’ll come into the village on, right in the centre.)
The village lies on the sheltered east coast of the island at the southern end of Small Isles Bay. Craighouse existed before the distillery but having the distillery there helped keep Craighouse populated when other hamlets and villages shrank after the middle of the 1800s.
Back in the 1800s Craighouse would have been a hive of activity. Droves of Islay cattle were herded from the Sound of Islay – crossing at Feolin where the ferry comes now, to Lagg, where the cattle were then ferried on to the mainland to markets in Central Scotland.
There are places to eat and drink here- the hotel and Antler’s Cafe – and to buy snacks and food at the community shop if you’re planning a picnic. Stop here and take time to walk around. Go past the hotel and you’ll come across a square of small units with a gift shop selling locally made crafts and gifts, and photography gallery and fuel pumps and Juraa’s Rum distillery – Deer Island Rum – too.
A little further are some public loos and a pier (if you’re lucky someone may be bringing in fresh seafood off a boat and you might be able to buy your supper).
Looking back towards the village you’ll see the Paps. In the centre of the village – just over the little bridge next to the distillery you’ll find the cafe on the left and shop on the right, and if you wander down to the little beach and pier you’ll get more stunning views.
2. Photos of bygone days
You can walk, or drive a very short way to find a small church on your left. Park up here and go round the back of the church and up the stone steps into the room above where you’ll find a fantastic collection of old photographs – the lovely church itself is well worth going into and has some beautiful stained glass windows.
Once inside the upstairs room take some time to enjoy the photographs – each with a paragraph or two of explanation, giving a fascinating insight into life on Jura in times gone by. One wonders how much has changed since these visitors arrived on these shores?
In the era of the steamers, which petered out after World War Two, Craighouse could be reached by sea directly from a number of mainland Scotland ports and brought thousands of visitors to this beautiful place, as this old photograph shows. You can see a selection of these pictures in our blog on this website here.
3. Corran Sands
There’s only one road out of Craighouse and it takes you along a pretty shore. you might want to stop off at the cemetery, signposted up a narrow road to your left. There are a number of interesting gravestones here including War Graves.
Then Corran sands becomes visible on your right, a sweeping bay of white sand. You can park near the recycling bins (there’s a lovely flat field ideal for camping here too) and walk down the track a little way until the machir (dune grass) gives way to sand.
Corran Sands is possibly the finest beach on Jura. This beautiful sweep of shell sand extends for a couple of miles east from the main road north from Craighouse, split in two by the fast-flowing Corran River.
As you walk along this white beach of fine sand and probably have the whole place to yourself, it’s hard to believe that at one time this place would be buzzing with people.
This part of the bay served as the island’s deep water anchorage. When the population of Jura dwindled and many hundreds left these shores forever back in the 1700s and 1800s they would be ferried out to waiting ships from this very beach.
Today though, you can wander along the shore and admire the view and watch the birds, or walk near the dunes – the local community has built a bridge over the river Corran and there are sculptures along the path which you can make music with, and a few benches.
On a warm day it’s almost impossible to think you’re on Jura as you look out to sea. But looking towards the land and those towering mountains and you know you are!)
The giant instruments are fun for little kids and big kids alike!
3. Lagg Pier and Tarbert Standing Stone
The road that now follows the south and part of the east coast of Jura was the drovers’ road, and was especially built to transport cattle being herded from Colonsay, Islay and the rest of Jura to Lagg. From here the cattle were ferried across the Sound of Jura to Knapdale on the mainland. You can see the slipway and pier that was built here in 1810. The nearby drovers’ inn is now a farmhouse.
An account from the mid 1800s suggests that this now tranquil spot was once frequently the site of riotous drinking as drovers waited for delayed ferries to sail. The cattle and their drovers would travel together in open boats that would have been at the mercy of bad weather. You can still see the slipway and pier that was built here in 1810 but what you might not realise is that it was designed by famous Scottish civil engineer Thomas Telford, who was responsible for many fine pieces of engineering throughout Scotland and the UK.
As you climb out of Lagg find a safe place to stop and look back for a great view of the pier down below to your right. Then follow the road north and head for Tarbert.
Loch Tarbert almost cuts Jura in two – there is a lovely walk from one side of the island to the other alongside the Loch if you have more than a day here. As you drive along past Tarbert look out for the prehistoric menhir, or standing stone on your right. It’s well worth a visit. It is 8ft high and two feet wide and tapers at the top. It is roughly rectangular and has a group of smaller stones round its base.
4. Lussa Gin and Ardlussa
The road north is a spectacular drive – be sure to keep your wits about you so you know where the passing places are (you may have to reverse back to one) and look out for deer and sheep too crossing the road.
Head for Ardlussa and the beach there. Just before the beach is a clearing where there are almost always deer grazing. Take time to wander on the beach and clamber on the rocks or have a picnic here.
Then why not finish with a visit to the Lussa Gin distillery, where you can get a taste of the local gin, infused with flavours from locally foraged ingredients and learn more about the process – and of course, take home some souvenirs to drink later on.
We have not even touched upon the possibilities of a walk to Barnhill, where George Orwell wrote 1984, and from where you can see the Corryvrekan whirlpool when it is running (you can learn more about that here), or climbing the paps – a task you should not undertake lightly, and be very wary of the weather which can close in quickly.
We hope you enjoy this whirlwind tour of Jura and take the trip for yourselves – be sure to leave plenty of space in the boot for a few souvenirs too – not just the delicious spirits made here but the local crafts and goods. And for more information and inspiration check out our downloadable audio guide to Jura.
There are other ways to get to Jura too – and you’ll find more information here.